raf simon's dior

A remarkable talent, Simons has moved into new territory for him, having explored (and perfectly integrating quintessential Jil Sander) the concept of the uniform, reflecting both his working class background, his exquisite sense of tailoring, color, and the luxury of cashmeres and other lush fibers.

In an interview with fashionmag.com Simons emphasized that Christian Dior was originally involved in the art world, representing Dali and Giacometti, and how this unleashed his own exploration of Warhol graphics as pattern. "For me, Warhol made so much sense. I was interested in the delicacy and sensitivity in the early work...I was drawn to that graphic style and the notion of hand work and personal signature."

Of course what is most exciting to ecomodista is a new direction for knitting/crochet with large needle knits overlapping houndstooth checks.

Dior RTW A/W 2013/2014 photograph: Nicole Pollard 

Is this the best or what? Although the hem on the houndstooth could be more definitive, seems to be out of accord, but the concept is brilliant. 

knitting feat

Knit shoes? Various designers have experimented with this concept, from Bless to Nike (ok, it's termed knit but actually an industrial textile process), from Pia Wallen's adorable felt slippers (ok ok, so originally felt would have been hand knit then felted...) to Misonni's textile shoes based on their own knitwear stitch patterns, often  bargello, the geometric needlepoint technique.

above, Andrea Kranzlin's shoe cover, fitting over high heels with only the heel protruding, perfect for slipping on at home instead of slippers or damtoffla; center image: Missoni shoes, not quite knit but certainly inspired by their knitwear; above, cardigan designed by Kranzlin. She often designs costumes for Belgian avant garde director, Jan Fabre.

Above, Pollini cable oxfords; brown Dior shoe covers

Ines Kaag and Desiree Heiss or Bless collaborate on various projects, fashion only one of their "products." Working in Berlin and Paris they produce not only accessories, shoes, and home furnishings, but exhibit conceptual projects at Paris’s Centre Pompidou, the Berlin Biennale, and the Kunsthalle in Basel among other venues. See: BLESS

Mark Fast knit shoes, 2012

Rosy Nicholas and Fred Butler collaborated on shoes created using French knitted tubes. Butler graduated from the University of Brighton in 2003. Since then her work has been worn by Bjork, Lady Gaga, Beth Ditto and others. See: Fred Butler via Filep Motwar

Nike's Flyknit shoes are lightweight runners that look like a wraparound blanket for your feet. Nike refers to these shoes as a "second skin." The minimalist design reduces weight via the single-layer uppers. A size 9 shoe weighs a mere 5.6 oz (160 g) producing a shoe, the Flyknit, that is 19 % lighter than its Zoom Streak 3, a shoe worn by the first, second and third place finishers in the 2011 World Championships men's marathon.

See also Spanish knit conversion of Van's, Antiatoms

happy happy 2013!

transparency and media, b and b's among other observations

Alexander Wong sandels, ecomodista's one exception to buying vintage, they're so faux orthotic!

ecomodista does not facebook, nor does she wear logos, primarily wears vintage and handmade knits, not only her own (if only she could finish her Ruth Sørensen sweater!). In fact, ecomodista advocates the movement whereby consumers, not just fashion bloggers, are paid by designers such as Channel to wear their clothing and accessories.

As always control and patrol your closet by knitting, sewing, and consuming only vintage when possible. If consumers reduce consumption, political entities will have no choice but to develop jobs restoring the earth's environment, planting trees, protecting what wildlife is left, creating sustainable industries, and building an infrastructures that may cope with large scale storms resulting from climate change. The hurricane in the NE has finally forced NYC to explore various technologies to cope with flooding as the seas rise. The very fact that Mayor of NYC, Michael Bloomberg supported President Obama's reëlection on the basis of the administration's environmental stance, says it all.

Surprisingly, fashion blogging is often supported by corporate largesse if not payroll, and has finally been tackled on the Business of Fashion and in the New York Times. As Ruth La Ferla reports, seeding new or long-established designer labels into the street style mix "is a new way of doing PR." She interviewed Daniel Saynt, CEO of Socialyte, and director of social media campaigns for Burberry among others.

see: http://www.businessoffashion.com/2012/09/op-ed-fashion-blogging-has-a-transparency-problem.html

Photograph: White House B & B in Canterbury, UK

ecomodista does not accept payment or advertising for any endorsements. So what on earth is a gorgeous B & B in Canterbury doing here? The wonderful White House B & B housed me while I was working in the UK in May, paid by me accordingly. Contrary to what one might believe, ecomodista despises B & B's, ever since staying in teddy bear hell (I do love teddy bears, but 127 filling a room, on the fireplace mantle, in the bathroom?) I have refused to stay in a B & B since. However, when one is working compromises are necessary. The White House is hardly a compromise, the house is beautifully designed, and the housekeeping immaculate, and extremely well managed. Breakfast was superb.

Photograph: White House B & B in Canterbury, UK

I was working in Canterbury photographing a breeder and her Gypsy Cobs. Photographing horses and the Royal Windsor Horse Show is a departure for ecomodista, but if you are interested see "From the Horse's Mouth" at aRUDE Magazine, edited by the always stylish Ike Ude.

See: http://www.arudemag.com/from-the-horses-mouth/

still talking horseshoe cables, and bobbles too

Photograph: Anna Dudzinska, Unknown Campaign A/W 12/13

Anna Dudzinska, a Polish designer trained at Cracow School of Art and Fashion Design, Poland. Anna's collections often include wonderful knits. Her work has been described as a avant-garde meets street. Dudzinska is influenced by deconstruction, modern architecture, and interior design. She also designs  RTW collections recognized as FASH.LAB. Her latest mini collection FASH.LAB#2 had a premiere on the exhibition in Galerie Joseph, Paris. Dudzinska participates in Poland's Fashion Week among other venues.

see: http://dud-zin-ska.com/collections

Photograph: Myrza de Muynck sweater with cabled sleeves

Myrza de Muynck is a Dutch designer and a recent graduate from the MA Fashion program at Central Saint Martins London. Fusing sportswear influences, think sweatshirts, with vintage couture from the 1920's Muynck's work is feminine with hand worked details (think sweatshirts again). Using the palest pastels with flashes of brights, the garments combine old with new, casual with chic.

She was chosen as Vauxhall Fashion Scout’s One’s to Watch AW12-13 which enabled her to present on the catwalk at Covent Garden Freemasons’ hall in London as well as participating in Paris.

Myrza's S/S 2013 collection was again scouted by Vauxhall Fashion Scout and continues her hand worked embroidery and prints. Part Flapper and part Punk Riot grrrl, her new collection takes inspiration from women’s individuality through music, and maintains her tomboy femininity elegance. The silhouettes are inspired by 19 teens swimwear and early Egyptomania combined with the attitude of a Riot Grrl. Using summery linen, poplin cotton and towelling printed with checks and hand embroidered beads and sequins.

See: http://myrzademuynck.com/

pattern for homage a Isabel Marant, honestly you won't ever have to hear about this pullover again

Size: Small (medium pattern possibly soon, but then ecomodista still needs to size the Noro Gansey...)

Yarn: Karabella Aurora Bulky and Aurora or wool/camel out of stock but one may substitute Classic Elite's Kumara, a medium weight yarn spun from wool and camel or the now scarce Debbie Bliss Fex yarn. Rowan Felted Tweed Chunky, Rowan Purelife Renew, Debbie Bliss Riva; Rowan Tweed Aran could be mixed with solids from Debbie Bliss or Classic Elite Ariosa wool and cashmere yarn using Debbie Bliss Blue Faced Leicester Aran in exchange for the Rowan Linen Print, although scrounging on eBay may net some vintage yarn, but after all it's more important to use odds and ends, leftovers from previous projects. 

Gauge: 3.3 stitches per inch measured over 4 inches 5 rows per inch measured over 4 inches

color A: navy 

color B: Rowan linen print

color C: dark olive color D: cobalt blue  color E: mauve color F: acid green color G: jade

Cast on #11 circular needles 112 stitches, with color A navy k 3 p 2 ribbing for 4 rows, divide garment into half and mark each half, further identifying the beginning of the garment so that stitches may be counted for the various rows and clearly mark each side at stitch 1 - 56 and 57 - 112 on each side.

change to color B Rowan linen print (leave both ends out of the 2 colors, about 3 or 4 inches and continue this practice every time a color is changed) for almost 3 rows, at 42 stitches change to color C olive green 3 rows, then begin 4th row, at 22nd stitch on back be certain to leave 3 inch tail for each color change change to color D sky blue, around 1 row stopping at stitch 24 on the front side, begin color A  knit for 7 rows on front changing to color E at stitch 55 in back at stitch 22; change to color B for 2 rows ant to stitch 38 in front; begin color F, for 4 rows, at 5th row in front stitch 5, change to color D for almost 1 row, at stitch 42 on back, change to color C for 3 rows, on 4th row in front, at stitch 52, change to color B on second row in front of this color, at stitch number 19, change to color G on row number 4 in the back, at stitch number 9, change to color A for  7 rows, changing to color B in the front at stitch number 30, change to color B for 2 rows changing color in back to color E, for almost 2 rows. 

In front change to color C at stitch number 43 for almost 5 rows, ( at third row divide garment into two sides and knit stockinette rows) changing in front to color D at stitch number 8 almost i row, changing color in back to color F at stitch number 51. Knit 5 rows in acid green then change to color G at stitch number 5 in back, knit almost 5 rows, change to color B on row five at stitch number 14 in the back. Knit for almost 3 rows, changing to color A on an edge. On 5th row in front change to color C, purling the row for 28 stitches on front, and on row 4, change to color B at stitch number 14 begin ribbing, begin with 4 knit stitches, 2 purl then 3 knit 2 purl until last 4 stitches, then p 2, k 4 for 5 rows then bind off on wrong side with knit stitch. Repeat for other side in this manner: on fifth row of color C, change to color D at stitch number 9, to end of row, and change to color F, knit for 4 rows until stitch number 47 changing to color G remembering to leave 3 inch tails at color changes that occur. On row 5 of color F at stitch number 17 change to color B, knit in stockinette 2 rows then change at en of row 2 to color A, knit for 5 rows at row 6 stitch number 28 purl on the front side (if on the wrong side of textile, knit stitch instead of purl to create the purls. Knit 4 row, then change to color B, ribbing begins with k 4 (if on right side reverse for wrong side) p 2, then k3 p2 until last 6 stitches, p 2 k 4. Bind off with purl stitch if on right side, knit if on wrong side.

Using 3 needle technique pick up 14 stitches on one shoulder side of front & back, knit together.

Pick up sleeve stitches by picking up each stitch under sleeve on one side to row number 12, picking up every other stitch (6 stitches) then pick up every stitch for sleeve including the 1 shoulder seam stitch, knit one round on second round, decrease on either side of top row, by k 2 tog k 1 ssk then continue; on 4th round repeat. on 5th round on the back of sleeve, change to color E, on this row make decreases on either side of the under side of sleeve, k2  ssk, and last 4 stitches k 2tog k 2rows; decrease every other row until 42 stitches remain. Change color at row 3 on front at stitch 7 (be certain to mark top and halfway underneath arm) to color G for 4 rows, changing color on row 4 (of this color) stitch number 8 on the front of garment to color A on row 6 on the back, stitch number 14, change to color F for 4 rows, change on front to color D. Begin color C k for 5 rows on back of garment change to color E 6 stitches from middle of under arm. on front 2 stitches from middle under arm change to color B one row, the bind off in k stitch. Repeat for other side.

Work ends, if any that are not intentional into stitches.

must be the season of the horseshoe cable stitch

Photo: Belstaff advert spread Vogue, September 2012 

Even Clare Waight Keller has included this stitch in her S/S 2013 collection for Chloe, what did ecomodista do with that spread? While it may be more exciting to work in Paris, I loved the innovative knits she designed for the venerable Pringle label. Chloé was founded by Gaby Aghion in 1952, and was the first to produce luxury prêt-à-porter in the 1950's. Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo have designed for Chloé over the past 2 decades. Waight Keller designed a cream sweater with small horseshoe cables, and another beautiful sweater this season, is knit with a heavy marled wool, in a zig zag basket weave stitch on the chunky bodice.  

Photograph: Waight Keller for Chloé no horseshoe cable here...

Belstaff, began producing technical sports wear for pilots and motorycyclists at Stoke-on-Trent, England in 1924. Founders Eli Belovitch and Harry Grosberg developed a waxed cotton among other textiles while their leather jackets were popularized by iconoclastic actor, Steve McQueen and legendary revolutionary, Che Guevara. Guevara wore the Trialmaster jacket on his motorcycle journey in Latin America (see the film, The Motorcycle Diaries http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0318462/) Waxed cotton is no longer in evidence, at least in their advert spread in Vogue's September issue. Instead models loll about in sleek leather jackets and sumptuously chunky cashmere sweaters, especially the most stunning pullover with one massive horseshoe cable centered and running up each sleeve. 

Belstaff created the jacket worn by Leonardo DiCaprio in "The Aviator." Their jackets have also appeared in "Ocean's Twelve," and "The Curious Case of Benjamin Button." American, Martin Cooper, Belstaff's chief creative director finds immerses himself in the company's archives, and having worked at Burberry prior to this position, he understands the allure of British heritage. "I did rediscover the brand through the archive, those iconic garments from the twenties onwards," he says. "I wanted a holistic approach for both sexes, and 80 percent of the concepts are the same for the men's and womenswear."

Photo: Belstaff advert spread Vogue, September 2012 

Where oh where could one find such chunky cashmere wool? Perhaps Rowan's Big Wool, except ecomodista has a problem with it losing its loft in hand laundering, and although she recently threw a Marni cardigan into the dryer for 5 minutes to "firm it up," it's doubtful that Big Wool would do anything other than drastically shrink given such treatment.